Macro Photography

The Equipment

Most insects are small, so you’ll need equipment to magnify them. You can use a long lens with close focus of less than 10 feet, fit a diopter lens to the front of a regular lens, fit macro extension tubes between a lens and the camera body, or use a dedicated macro lens. Long lenses with focal length of at least 300mm have the advantage that you can take a photo while still at a distance from the insect, which makes approach much easier. Extension tubes are simply hollow tubes with no glass in them which are mounted between a regular lens and the body of the camera. The effect is to reduce the minimum focus distance of the lens – if the lens previously could focus no closer than 10 feet, then with extension tubes it might now focus as close as 5 feet. They come in different sizes and can be stacked on each other; since there’s no glass involved, there’s also theoretically no degradation of the image. I’ve never used diopter lenses so I can’t comment on them.

However none of these approaches to increasing magnification can compete with a dedicated macro lens. These lenses are typically the sharpest and clearest lenses in any manufacturer’s inventory – other lenses will be longer, more expensive or faster, but because of the obviousness of any optical aberrations in a macro photo, the macro lens will have the best optical characteristics of sharpness and clarity – something which makes them fairly unsuitable for portrait photos, since they’ll show up every fault of the subject! When pointed at an insect, such a lens can show up the very fine details like the hairs on the body, facets of the lens of the eyes and scales on the wings. Read the rest of this page »

Digital Camera Questions

D300Many of the digital cameras require the strobe setting to be in a special position with just the “lightning bolt” symbol showing in the window to activate the flash consistently. “Auto Flash” settings may leave the camera to decide if the light level is low enough to require flash, resulting in no fill flash in your pictures. Read the camera instruction manual for correct information pertaining to your camera. This special position may be referred to as “Internal Flash Active”, “Flash On”, “Forced” or “Fill Flash” in the instructions.

The TTL Slave Sensor is NOT recommended with most current digital cameras. The EV Manual Controller provides simple and dependable strobe triggering by simply aiming it at the camera housing, eliminating the need for fibre optic “sync cord” nonsense of other strobe systems. The Manual Controller does have switches that must be preset for preflash or non preflash, and strobe power.

Many cameras will select f/2.0 or f/2.8 aperture in the Program Mode unless ambient light is high. Aperture Priority and Manual Modes still provide TTL flash control, and may be a more satisfactory choice. Aperture priority may set too slow of a shutter speed, resulting in blurry pictures. Shutter priority may set wide open aperture which makes the camera think very little flash would be required. Read the rest of this page »